resistor block

Repair blower motor resistor for chassis air. The fan would only run on high, I've had this trouble before in cars so I knew where to look. I actually had this same thing go out about two years ago and replaced the resistor block at that time. At that time found out this part is not available from Winnebago any more and didn't think to call Friegthliner don't know why. Anyway went down to Auto-zone and found Dorman 973-013 Blower Motor Resistor it was off a ford truck. It was about $14.00. Most of the time I ran with the blower on high so I was surprised when it went out so soon. Pulled the resistor block out and all the little coils were still in tack so put an ohm meter across them and they were good. The only place current did not go thru was the Therma Fuse. The next problem is finding the right one the one from the ford must have been too cold. After about an hour on the internet could not find the correct temperature rating, called Winnebago and Freightliner and they could not tell me, probably just did not talk to the right person. Someone knows but they sell the part as a unit. So I gave it a shot in the dark and ordered 133 degree Celsius (5 of them for $5.00 including shipping). Now for the repair, thought about soldering the new in using heat sinks but the forms say even with heat sinks you run the risk of getting it to hot. So I drilled out the holes and crimped it in.

The right front jack was bend a little making it hard to retract. It got bad enough to replace. A while back we bought a used one for the front because we though it was leaking turned out not to be the case. So I put it back on and it works fine now.

jack working on jack

Final did it, drove off with the antenna up. First low tree limb broke the elevator tube and gear. Order new parts from Windguard. Could have repaired the elevator tube but the new one was only $11 so I just ordered them. It was the shipping and tax that added to the cost. Was easy to repair from the top of the motorhome. Total cost 31.46


The indicator that tells you the jacks are down quit working all of a sudden. It showed that the back two jacks were up all the time. First indications was that the controller was not working -going to put that repair off-. While cleaning out the electric compartment I decided to remove a wire I had run for the lube pump and noticed that some wires had been chewed by something. Repaired the wires and the jack indicators are working now. Sometimes you just get lucky.

wire chewed

Needed brake controller for tandem tow dolly. Was looking for easy to install proportional system and decided to install Tekonsha Prodigy P3 Trailer Brake Controller purchased from total cost $117.00. Was an easy installation since Freightliner had prewired the chassis. 


Decided not to go with the Bird system it is too complicated (KISS). In 2006 Winnebago started installing this unit. They already have a system to charge the house batteries from the chassis alternator so a bidirectional system is not necessary. and if this is good enough for them then it should work for us.Installed Ultra Trik L Start 5 Amp Starter charger to keep the chassis batteries in good shape.Total cost from $37.90. Everything looked great after installation.

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Some time ago the bird bi-directional charger stopped working and now the aux start relay stopped working.Had to fix one of them. I disconnected the negative battery lead on both banks to ground making certain all voltage is off the solenoid. Removed the cover and the bezel to gain access.  After that it was just a matter of swapping out the old one with the new one. Found the OME replacement Trombetta 12 Volt Bear DC Contactor Part No. 114-1211-020 on $59.37 I have not made up my mind on replacing the Bird system yet.

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We have had our EEZRV TPMS system for 4 + years and I can't remember the last time we got in the motorhome and all 10  tires would read. I think the problem is all the metal. After a lot of research it seems the best solution would be to add a repeater but after spending so much money on the system it was hard to spend more money to make it work like it should have to start with. Well it's time to either buy a different system or try the repeater. I installed the repeater in the draw by the bed in the back, I wanted it out of the way but not too hard to get to the reset button or unplug from power. Hope this corrects the problem. Purchased direct from EEZRV on sale for $49.00. It being on sale helped with the decision. As soon as we turned it on all he tires started reading. We are keeping our fingers crossed will let you know if we are disappointed. Well after the first trip I now have a good system, worked great.

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The front sway bar end-link grommets were completely missing when I crawled underneath. Diane and I had been hearing a rattle from underneath the RV. After looking for parts and not finding any without having to wait for a special order  I bought some universal 'Part Masters Suspension Grommets' to see if they would fit. I had to grind (.3") them with a belt sander, but they actually work pretty good. They are a bit thicker than the ones that the book called for, but there was enough threads to get the nut started and then tighten it up.I also lubricated the sway bar bushings as they were super dry.Here are some pictures showing what I did. The part number is K5254 sold for 4.79 and you need 2 packs. Comes with bolts and washers I did not use. Total cost $10.50. The next time I might put polyurethane ones in.

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We added a 12 volt outlet in the water compartment for our Flo Jet RV Waste Pump. We purchased this a couple of years ago so we could empty our tanks at the house using clean out drain that is on the side of our house. Very helpful if you have company and have to use the RV for an extra bedroom for guests. Autozone 12 volt outlet $4.68


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